Moving Forward Fingerless Mittens

 I've been debating if I should try and sell this pattern or just list it for free, and I've decided that since this is really my first shot at it, I'll offer it for free. Not that I'd object to people sending me money for it (I can tell people my paypal info if they really want to ship some money my way for the pattern, but it's not necessary.)

They're called the Moving Forward Mit's because the yarnover and k2tg patterning causes it to form chevrons that point toward the fingers, as though telling you where to go.

 I made these in a DK/Sport weight yarn ((I used Capra from Knitpicks for these.)) But the pattern is easy enough to adjust for size. Hell you could probably drop it to fingering and get some great kid sized mitts.

 I personally recommend either using solid colors like I did, or using yarn with subtle variegation, otherwise you kind of loose the pattern in the colors.

 And before anyone asks: Yes you may sell anything made with this pattern, BUT you may NOT sell the pattern itself. Please direct people to come and get a copy, it's good traffic for me, and I think getting credit and traffic for the pattern is a decent trade for a comfy quick knit.

 I'm also "Nightgaunt" on ravelry.com btw, so if you're on there, drop me a link. I'd love to see what you make with this pattern!
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'Moving Forward' Fingerless Mits:
 -Note: The 'important' (IE decorative) part of these mittens starts with the purl three border, and ends with the purl three border. If you find these come out too snug, and want to add stitches rather than increase needle size, I suggest increasing at either end of the starting stitch marker until they results are as comfortable as you want.  It shouldn't throw things off too much as long as the number of stitches stays even, though you'll use a little more yarn. Likewise, if you have small wrists and this knits up too big, decrease from the knit stitch repeats on the outside edges to get that perfect fit, or use a smaller yarn and needles until you get a really comfortable fit.
Materials Needed:
 --Yarn of choice ((Worsted or DK is recommended.)), --Scrap Yarn in contrasting color, stitch marker, size 7 dpns

Cast on 28 stitches, join in the round. ((I divided things over three needles with: 10-9-9))
(rows 1-6) -6 rounds in rib stitch. (k1p1)
(row 7)-knit 7, purl 3-knit 1, yo, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 1, purl 3, knit 6
(row 8)-knit 7, purl 3, knit 9, purl 3, knit 6
(row 9)-knit 7, purl 3, knit 2, yo, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 2, purl 3, knit 6
(row 10)-knit 7, knit 7, purl 3, knit 9, purl 3, knit 6
 Repeat rows  7-10 for desired wrist length. (should come to base of the thumb)
When you have reached the desired length, take a piece of scrap yarn in a different color:
For Left Mitten: Starting at Starting Marker
 K 1 in regular yarn, K5 with scrap yarn, slip scrap stitches back onto needle, knit with regular yarn. Continue with lace pattern above (rows 7-10) until fit reaches just behind the knuckle. Switch back to k1p1 rib for 6 rows. Bind off loosely.
For Right Mitten:
 Knit until just after the second set of P3 in the 'lace'. K2. K5 with scrap yarn. Pass 5 scrap stitches back and knit with regular yarn. Finish off mitten the same as the Left mitten.
 --If you're familiar with the "Picot" bind off, you can use it to make a fancier, more Victorian top edge, but since these were originally intended to be dressy driving mittens, I decided to go with the ribbed bind off for comfort and to minimize snagging.

TO CREATE THE THUMB ON EITHER MITTEN:
 Pick up stitches on the edges where the scrap yarn is acting as a place holder. Once you're sure you have captured all the stitches to avoid a run-back, divide your captured stitches around 3 needles. Knit thumb to desired length and bind off loosely. With thumb holes it's slightly more comfortable to err large than small, so picking up an extra stitch or two may be less annoying than one or two too few.